I didn't mind and four-year-old Lucy didn't notice, but my wifeNicky was not impressed that the flat I'd internet-booked for ourfirst five days in the Dominican Republic wasn't so much in a red-light district as an open-air go-go town. We hit Boca Chica, 45minutes' drive from the capital, Santiago, at the tail end of theweekend and every street seemed busy with hookers. We found ourapartment at the Residence Candil, a securely gated complex setaround a central courtyard and pool, unfolded Lucy's travel cot andordered pasta from the cafe downstairs.
Boca Chica looked much brighter in the warm light of day. It onlytook five minutes to walk to the beach, a perfect crescent of goldensand ringed by dirt-floor restaurants. The water was ideal for oursemi-swimming daughter because it never reached more than three feetdeep.
But after a few days Lucy needed to graduate from what was, ineffect, a large saline paddling pool. So we set off for a day'sdrive across the island to Puerto Plata. In the highlands we wentfor a walk, buying coconuts from a street vendor and following anunmade path through mountainous countryside so fertile that even thefence-posts sprouted leaves, where donkeys set the pace of life.Then we continued our journey to the resort of Puerto Plata, whereI'd booked five nights' b&b at Sofy's Guest House.
Puerto Plata is not as busy as it once was, because the all-inclusive resorts along the coast to the east have soaked up thetrade. This was noticeable at Sofy's, something of a Puerto Platainstitution but one where we were the only guests. That didn't stopSofy, the Canadian expat owner, from vacating her bedroom toaccommodate a family booking.
Though I felt a little awkward staying in someone's house, Lucyloved Sofy's tropical fish and traditional breakfasts.
Each day we'd drive west to Costambar Beach to rent sunbeds froman attendant who also watched our car, and buy fruit freshly peeled.While a council team of two men and one donkey cleared any straystrands of seaweed, Lucy perfected her doggy paddle in the gentlewaves.
Our b&b was inland, though, and there are times when you justwant to be able to walk from your bed into the sea. Sofy's advicewas to drive along the coast to Las Terrenas on the Sam-anapeninsula. This modest little town of privately rented villas andsmall resorts was already full to bursting. After being turned awayfrom several of the prettiest we found a larger development, HotelColibri, which seemed to be between owners - the restaurant wasclosed and reception usually vacant. By the time you read this a newairport will have opened up Samana to German and Canadian flights.
But it was Las Terranas that captured our hearts. Days were spenton the beach, playing in the surf.
In the evenings we gently trawled the selection of small r e s ta u -rants. On our last day there we drove across the peninsula togo whale-watching. Lucy was hugely pleased to see her first whale,its tail rising majestically by the side of our boat.
For some, the Dominican Republic is all about all-inclusives,and, as our flight home was from Porto Cana, I'd booked our finalthree nights in one nearby for convenience. But Lucy proved no loverof resort facilities. She didn't want to use their children's club,didn't much like having to sit still through meals. We had all beenspoilt by a sense of freedom. On the night before we left, Lucyasked: "Daddy, what's our next adventure?" She wasn't impressed tobe told that it was flying home.
THE COMPACT GUIDE
HOW TO GET THERE
Charterflights (0845-045 0153; charterflights.co.uk) flies fromLondon to Puerto Plata from [pound]109 return.
WHERE TO STAY
The Residence Candil (001 809 523 4252) in Boca Chica offersapartments from $65 ([pound]36) per night. In Puerto Plata, Sofy'sGuest House (001 809 586 6411) offers rooms sleeping three for $50([pound]28) per night.
FURTHER INFORMATION
Dominican Republic Tourism (020-7242 7778; godominicanrepublic.com)
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